This week's print column breaks down the myths around the poisonous Japanese blowfish known as tora-fugu. The delicacy was arguably made famous by a Simpsons episode in which Homer thinks he has only 24 hours to live after an amateur cook butchers the fish. (If you haven't watched it, do it now.)
One refrain I heard repeatedly throughout my reporting on tora-fugu was that it's not for everyone—and not because you'll almost die like Homer Simpson. (You won't.) Rather, raw tora-fugu has a very delicate taste that can seem almost flavorless. There's no "wow" impact.
"It's the subtle, almost textural umami that kind of stands horizontally in the palette," says Sushiko owner Daisuke Utagawa, who doesn't serve fugu but says it's one of his favorite fish. "It does have a lot of a taste, it's just that the type of taste that it has is something that we're not used to detecting."....
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